Brazil is Open

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Brazil is described in travel brochures as a land of temptation. Sparkling photographs advertise the romantic captivation of thousands of miles of pristine beaches, not to mention the alluring bikini inhabitants with their skin the color of cinnamon, whose beckoning smiles are like footprints in the sands of desire.

If you are seeking an insider's guide on Brazil's seductive charms, I have to confess that despite my years living here, I'm no closer to finding the key. I'm still in pursuit of the mystery, but perhaps that's the answer.

What's remarkable about this country isn't its mystery, but the complete opposite – Brazil's transparency. In other words, there is no mystery. Everything is visible. Brazil is open and obvious, leaving nothing to the imagination. Where's the mystery in a microscopic bikini? Where's the seduction when all is discernible?

Brazil is so straightforward it's acceptable for mothers to breastfeed their babies in the mall or on a public bus. Brazil is so obvious its macho men dress up as women for Carnival. Brazil is so open there are small wild animals running free in the public parks. Brazil is so visible restaurants and stores keep their doors wide open even on winter days. Owners fear that potential customers will see a closed door and think the shop is closed. Brazil is so transparent that when female athletes compete, the TV commentators broadcast both their height and weight.

At parties, when a guest arrives with flowers for the hostess, the flowers come as a plant in dirt, showing the open origins of the flowers. Americans don't want to know where flowers come from.

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Brazil is so direct the term for a woman's strapless blouse is tomara que caia – literally, 'let's hope it falls.' Brazil is so apparent vanity (vaidade) is considered a positive trait. It means a woman has the time and money to care for her appearance. You will not hear an American woman at a party discussing her recent cosmetic surgery and the excellent price she negotiated with the doctor.

Brazil is so bold there's a law in the Constitution that permits loitering, and another law that allows for petitions from the public to be presented as potential amendments to the Constitution. Brazil is so explicit it's not unusual for a well-known actress to do TV commercials while she's visibly pregnant, and all the women who watch the commercial will know who the father is and the sex of the fetus.

Brazil is so overt that when I had the pleasure of taking the most popular tourist train from Curitiba to Morretes and the train stalled for two hours on its four-hour route, instead of announcing there was a mechanical failure or an accident, they immediately told us someone had committed suicide. Earlier in the ride when we had passed a small town with illegal shanties constructed right next to the tracks, we were informed to keep the windows closed as the locals were in the habit of launching rocks at the train with slingshots.

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Brazil's most popular image of 'fun in the sun' raises the question of how they have so much free time. Again, no mystery. There are far more holidays in Brazil than in the US. Both national celebrations like Tiradentes Day and religious holidays like Corpus Christi provide frequent escapes from work. Thanks to all the holidays and the attraction of natural wonders like Foz Iguaçu, a waterfall as big as Niagara, it's no surprise Brazilians are so busy relaxing.

Added to all the holidays, a further excuse for frivolity is the ever-present birthday bash, which occurs on a weekly basis in offices all around the country as every employee gets toasted. During business hours, work time is lost every week to cheese bread and birthday cake diversions. Nor is it unusual for Brazilians to have beer with their boss and colleagues after work, as dinner occurs at 8 or 9 pm.

As if the frequent parties and holidays weren't enough of an impediment to productivity, there's the exaggerated level of bureaucracy that welcomes any new venture. Everything from obtaining a driver's license, to opening a store, to importing hog casings from China for the mass production of Brazilian sausage requires an army of professional brokers, logistics experts, tax attorneys, and customs officials to ponder over piles of documents.

Along with the molasses-like bureaucracy and birthday interruptions, Brazilians are not known for their long-term planning or timeliness. Meetings rarely start on time, while parties are organized at the last minute and emails get returned because the recipient's mailbox is full. In the even-more relaxed Northeast, which lies on the equator, it's common for the importance of an appointment to be noted as: “We should meet at 11 on the watch.”

Brazil is so familiar there’s no difference in Portuguese between the word for lend and the word for borrow – emprestar. In the US, wasting time is no different than wasting money. In Brazil, time can't be wasted because it's not something that can be bought or sold. Time is a gift from the gods, which is why it’s impossible to be late in Brazil.

Brazilian salaries are listed in monthly values, not annually. It's clear no one is making any predictions about the unpredictable future. There is an open admission of the world's uncertainty. With all the bureaucracy and birthdays, it's no mystery why it takes longer for things to get done in Brazil, another reason not to obsess about time.

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Americans work endless hours dreaming of retirement when they will be able to feel human again and spend their days more wisely. They are guarding every minute, carefully planning and organizing so they may someday relax on a quiet beach. Perhaps they'll find a beach house in Brazil where they can observe their calm Brazilian neighbors, who have been practicing relaxation for years and can help the exhausted Americans to treasure every day openly.

Michael RubinComment